If not, the car would always stumble on when it was shut off, or just keep running! Well it can't just be a "different circuit", there has to be a mechanical cut between these two circuits- IE: a relay. So it took some time to pull the harness out and separate the old ECM/TCM harness from everything leftover, then wire in the speedometer & warning lights (the original Check Engine light is now the Nitrous Armed light!)Īlso, a note on wiring - they say "install the IGN +12V for the 4L60E harness (solid red wire) on a "different circuit" than the IGN +12V for the engine harness. The customer wanted the car 'stock appearing' and all gauges to function as original. Small block Chevy crank trigger kit 556-110 Ign Harness 558-306 (universal to wire in 8x/1x Culver disc and MSD box)Īnd for easy reference here are the Ignition part numbers I ordered later when the Opticrap wasn't reliable: Tune port harness TPI- 558-101 (late LT need to change the IAC and TPS connectors) "OE" Optispark distributor to fit the disc (Culver's disc does not fit into the MSD Optispark, more on that later. Culver 8x/1x Optispark disc from Lane Culver Here are the part numbers I initially ordered: My intention for this customer was to install a Dominator to control the LT1Įngine using the OE Ignition system (Optispark), Trans control on the 4L60E and a single stage progressive 200 HP Nitrous system. Feel free to ask more questions as you have some people with a lot of experience here.Finally have a forced day off and time to post this up. That being said, I wish you the best of luck. It would save a TON of money doing it off the bat rather than doing 2 builds. Plus, when you do this, you can take advantage of the motors strength and max out that D1. As Black hawk mentioned, to do it right a good forged crank, low CR forged pistons, rods ect. The unfortunate side of things is that its very expensive to go FI. But to most it doesn't make sense to invest all of that and all the time and effort with it to put it together knowing its not going to last long. You say you're not worried about blowing the motor, that long blocks are cheap. Just doing the build you are doing, you are going to have thousands wrapped up in everything. If you baby it and don't get it into boost often, you will probably help prolong the inevitable. Its all a gamble and will depend on how much you get into the boost. It could make it 15,000 miles, or it might not make it 1500 miles. There are some things you can do to better your chances like put a good fuel system in it, inter cooling, meth injection, a safe tune, ect., but its still just going to be a matter of time before it goes. The LT1 (and LS1 for that matter) came with a high CR and non-forged internals which is opposite of what you want for boost. I do agree with the others though that this setup will destroy that stock LT1. You are going to surprise a lot of people! I think this is a really oddball but original idea throwing this in that Volvo. I want to be helpful so keep that in mind. " If you want to play, you'll have to pay " we think it's great you are wanting to cross over into the forced induction world! we just want you to think about the real cost of forced induction. Mind you these are just opinions aimed at helping you make an informed decision* not an attack in any sort of way. well i'll tell you from experience, the car looks a better with you driving it then it getting a AAA flatbed ride to an auto shop because the engine blew up as ShowNoMercy saidĥ: Forged Crank, forged pistons, forged connecting rods, good flowing or port & polished heads, upgraded push rods, lifters, valve springs and valves. What exactly are your goals with the car? because with what you have listed it seams you want a fast car. 2: stock so you restrict as much power as possible so you don't blow the stock motorģ: a small spring so you don't blow up the stock motorĤ: ribs don't determine boost, pulley diameter does, and you'll want the biggest one so limit the amount of boost you want to put into a stock motor with what you have listed
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